Matterhorn is one of the most difficult mountains to climb of all the peaks over 4000 meters in the Alps. Even the so-called normal route, the Hörnli ridge (Hörnligrat in German) is long, steep and demanding.
Matterhorn is majestically beautiful but should not be underestimated. To climb its summit is a challenge that requires a lot of preparation and training.
The degree of the normal route is AD which means very long sections with scrambling/climbing and some passages with steep rock climbing up to grade 4+ (UIAA grade). The climb from the hut to the summit is about 1600 meters long, 1200 meters vertical.
Our approach to the Matterhorn
We would love to climb the Matterhorn with you. But we want to do it the right way and with an attitude that we should do it in a reasonably safe manner.
We see the ascent of a mountain as a milestone on a long journey. A journey where we learn new things, have fun and develop our skills in climbing.
We take only one guest per mountain guide on the Matterhorn and we want to be 2 guides who climb with one guest each so that the teams can support each other, but move independently.
The program for the week
Depending on your level, knowledge and experience we can set up a program for you. If you have no previous experience in climbing, you should need to realise that it will take at least one and a half year before you are ready to climb the Matterhorn.
First and foremost, you need to be fit. The climb is long and demanding and at high altitude.
You should have taken a course in rock climbing (can be done in Sweden) to get the basics, rope and hedging techniques.
This can be complemented by climbing indoors during the winter to get an effective way of moving on steep rock.
Matterhorn should not be your first peak over 4000 meters in the Alps. This is not Kilimanjaro and experience from similar climbs is great but you also need experience from steeper climbs.
You must have climbed at least 2 other 4000 meters peaks in the Alps and at least two climbs of similar grade as the Matterhorn (AD or harder).
Use the form below and we will help you with your bespoke program for the Matterhorn.